对波群、规则波和不规则波作用下沙质海岸上沙坝运动进行了实验研究。研究沙坝产生的机理和不稳定性,以及不同波浪下所产生的海岸平衡剖面形状。实验中发现,波浪作用下沙坝处于向岸和离岸运动的不稳定状态,其原因可由地形不稳定性分析。探讨了波群调制系数对沙坝运动的影响,讨论了不同波况对海岸剖面形态的影响。
A physical experiment was conducted for the sandbar movement under the action of wave groups, and regular and irregular waves and the mechanism of the generation and the unstable motion of sandbars were studied. It is found that the sandbar moves onshore and offshore alternately and that this unstable motion can be seen as a type of the instability of the coastal sea bed profile under the action of water waves. An analysis on the instability of the bar motion is given for a plane slope beach.