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岬湾海滩剖面中长期变化特征及其控制因素--以青岛石老人海滩为例
  • ISSN号:1000-3096
  • 期刊名称:《海洋科学》
  • 时间:0
  • 分类:P736.21[天文地球—海洋地质;天文地球—海洋科学]
  • 作者机构:[1]中国海洋大学海洋地球科学学院,山东青岛266100, [2]中国海洋大学物理海洋教育部重点实验室,山东青岛266100
  • 相关基金:国家自然科学基金项目(41176039,41376054和41410304022);国家海洋局公益性项目(201405037)
中文摘要:

了解海滩剖面变化可以更好地理解海滩动态过程。利用2007年5月-2014年12月近8 a青岛石老人海滩剖面的实测资料,计算剖面各段单宽体积变化量及后滨宽度,结合交叉小波和小波相干分析方法,探讨海滩剖面中长期淤蚀变化特征及其控制因素。结果表明,近8 a来海滩剖面表现为侵蚀状态,不同岸段侵蚀程度不同。剖面1岸段侵蚀明显,剖面2和剖面3岸段轻微侵蚀。剖面的变化过程可划分为平稳期、剧变期和微调期3个时期。各时期剖面的季节性变化较复杂,平稳期具冬蚀夏淤的交替变化特征,整体淤蚀量较小;剧变期剖面呈阶段性蚀退,变化幅度相对较大,微调期剖面可能仍处于剧变期的恢复阶段,季节性变化不明显。剧变期和微调期的小波交叉谱和相干谱分析显示,波浪和前滨单宽体积相干性较好,尤其当大于2 m的波高达到10%以上,海滩地形可以和波高变化产生同周期的变化。因此波高变化基本控制了剖面的季节变化。而海滩长周期变化主要受控于风暴潮作用及其漫长的恢复期,沿岸输沙和海平面变化则一定程度上导致了剖面长期侵蚀格局的形成。

英文摘要:

Analysis of long- and medium-term variation characteristics of profiles is important in understanding dynamic beach processes. Based on nearly eight years of measured profiles data in the Shilaoren arc-shaped bay beach (Qingdao) from May 2007 to December 2014, the backshore width and beach volume data of the unit width were obtained. Use of the cross wavelet method and wavelet coherence analysis enabled analysis of long- and me-dium-term changes in trend and dynamic factors. Results show differences in the long-term variation of every beach profile, where Profile 1 eroded significantly but Profiles 2 and 3 suffered only slight erosion overall. In addition, the most recent eight years were divided into three stages: a stable period of 5 years (2007-2011), a 1-year change pe-riod (2012), and a fine-tuning phase of 2 years (2013-2014). Complex changes was observed in the medium-term beach profiles throughout the three stages. Seasonal changes in the profile during the stable period were character-ized by erosion during winter and acceleration in summer but with little erosion or deposition overall. However, the change period mainly showed that the profile was eroded back in stages with a relatively substantial total volume of scouring-silting. Results of cross wavelet spectrum analysis of the backshore volume of unit width and the wave height during the change period showed a good correlation, particularly when more than 10% of all waves had a wave height of over 2 m as this had a definite effect on beach topography. Seasonal variations in the profile during the fine-tuning period were not obvious, and this may be related to the recovery stage phase of the profile. It can thus be confirmed that seasonal waves are the main driving force of changes in the beach profile in the medium term. Although human intervention may lead to erosion-deposition on parts of the beach, this is not the controlling factor. In addition, long-term changes in the profile are mainly effected by storm waves and the associat

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期刊信息
  • 《海洋科学》
  • 北大核心期刊(2011版)
  • 主管单位:中国科学院
  • 主办单位:中国科学院海洋研究所
  • 主编:侯一筠
  • 地址:青岛南海路7号
  • 邮编:266071
  • 邮箱:dehail@ms.qdio.ac.cn
  • 电话:0532-82898751
  • 国际标准刊号:ISSN:1000-3096
  • 国内统一刊号:ISSN:37-1151/P
  • 邮发代号:2-655
  • 获奖情况:
  • 中国自然科学核心期刊
  • 国内外数据库收录:
  • 美国化学文摘(网络版),美国剑桥科学文摘,英国动物学记录,日本日本科学技术振兴机构数据库,中国中国科技核心期刊,中国北大核心期刊(2004版),中国北大核心期刊(2008版),中国北大核心期刊(2011版),中国北大核心期刊(2014版),中国北大核心期刊(2000版)
  • 被引量:21338