饮食在地理区位上的表述是"菜系",而当以"族群文化"对饮食进行分类时,诸多的"民族菜"就已经端上了人类学家的"餐桌"。在文化旅游的背景下,为吸引游客进行"舌尖上的探访","民族风味"在原生状态的味觉传承中,又加入了"文化想象"的符号化流转,对饮食进行着符号化的表述与传播。文章以彝族撒尼人食物体系的符号化表述为个案,观察"阿诗玛文化"是如何在"厨房"与"餐桌"之间刻写食物的故事,呈现那个"厨房里的阿诗玛"。
Food can be classified into different kinds according to varied regions it comes from.It also can be divided into different groups according to different ethnic culture represented in it.Nowadays,food with characteristics of specific ethnic groups becomes a subject matter of research for anthropologists.Upon the background of culture tourism,food with characteristics of ethnic groups is inherited and cultural imagination is given to it when expressing and spreading the food culture,which is to fulfill the purpose of attracting tourists. This paper,taking the symbolic representation of the food system of Sani people of Yi ethnic group as an example,tries to examine how Ashima culture is linked to the food culture.