中文摘要：

运用第三代海浪模式WAMC4在西北太平洋海域建立了深水波浪数学模型,利用美国国家环境预报中心（NCEP）再分析气象资料作为风场条件,对该海域波浪进行了长时间序列（1950～2009年）的数值模拟。在模型验证的基础上,采用P-III曲线对数值模拟结果进行了分方向重现期计算,得到了江苏外海13个站点一百年一遇和五十年一遇的重现期有效波高,发现江苏外海深水重现期波浪从南向北呈现递减趋势,强浪向由NE向逐渐向NNE向偏转。

英文摘要：

The latest version of the third generation spectral wave model, WAMC4, is adopted for the long-term hindcasting of wave climate for the northwest Pacific. The model is driven by the NCEP reanalysis wind data spanning the period of 1950 -2009. Based on the validation by the field data, the model is applied to calculate the significant wave height with 100- and 50-year return periods at 13 deepwater points off Jiangsu coast. The results show that the significant wave height at deepwater area decreases significantly from south to north and the direction with maximum wave height gradually turns northwards.