中文摘要：

为了更好在各种各样的 fringing 上理解波浪转变和联系水动力学的复杂过程，礁石介绍，数字实验被进行与一一个维(1D ) Boussinesq 波浪模型。模型基于高顺序的 Boussinesq 方程和一个高精确性的有限差别方法。在波浪地区，碎的波浪，和底部磨擦的主导的精力驱散被旋涡粘性概念和二次的底部磨擦法律的使用分别地考虑。数字模拟为大量波浪条件和礁石侧面被进行。在计算结果和大小之间的好全面同意证明这个模型能够在 fringing 礁石环境描述波浪过程。数字实验也被进行为高度非线性的波浪追踪安装的低估的来源。线性性质(包括分散并且变浅) 被发现贡献很少到低估；在为对待波浪碎的非线性和特定的方法的低精确性可以是为这个问题的原因。

英文摘要：

To better understand the complex process of wave transformation and associated hydrodynamics over various fringing reef profiles, numerical experiments were conducted with a one-dimensional （1D） Boussinesq wave model. The model is based on higher-order Boussinesq equations and a higher-accuracy finite difference method. The dominant energy dissipation in the surf zone, wave breaking, and bottom friction were considered by use of the eddy viscosity concept and quadratic bottom friction law, respectively. Numerical simulation was conducted for a wide range of wave conditions and reef profiles. Good overall agreement between the computed results and the measurements shows that this model is capable of describing wave processes in the fringing reef environment. Numerical experiments were also conducted to track the source of underestimation of setup for highly nonlinear waves. Linear properties （including dispersion and shoaling） are found to contribute little to the underestimation; the low accuracy in nonlinearity and the ad hoc method for treating wave breaking may be the reason for the problem.