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中文摘要：
破碎波对近海海岸地形以及海岸建筑物影响强烈，通过物理模型实验对孤立波、规则波作用下破碎带的床面形态以及孔隙水压力进行分析。破碎波冲击海床，破碎处床面上形成沙坝和沙坑，与规则波相比，孤立波破碎时对床面的）中刷更加剧烈，床面形成的沙坝和沙坑尺度更大，且土体内孔隙水压力幅值也较大。同时研究了波面变化对孔隙水压力的影响，发现波面变化历时曲线与孔隙水压力历时曲线相似，与孔隙水压力梯度历时曲线更为相似，说明波面变化更能反映海床内部孔隙水压力梯度的变化。通过探讨波浪与海床之间相互耦合作用，发现破碎带地形变化使得波浪出现不同破碎类型，分析得出卷破波比崩破波作用下孔隙水压力幅值大。
英文摘要：
Breaking wave has significant influence on the offshore coastal topography and offshore structures. Based on the physical model experiments,the bed form and pore water pressure are analyzed in the wave broken zone under the solitary wave and regular wave. Under breaking wave impact, the seabed surface scour is more heavily. Sandbar and sandpit are formed at the wave broken zone,and their scales are larger and the amplitudes of pore water pressure are higher under the solitary wave compared with regular wave. At the same time,effect of the variation of wave surface on the pore water pressure was studied. It is found that the duration curves of wave surface changing are similar to the duration curves of pore water pressure and it is more similar to the duration curves of pore water pressure gradient. It shows that the variation of wave surface can mostly reflect the variation of pore water pressure gradient on the seabed. Based on the discuss of the coupling effect between wave and seabed, it is found that topography variation may lead to waves appear different broken types at the wave broken zone, it was concluded from analysis that the pore water pressure amplitude under the plunging wave is bigger than spilling wave.
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