中文摘要：

通过理论分析和波浪水槽模型试验，对波浪破碎区由床面阻力和波浪破碎所引起的能量损耗进行了分析。建立了岸滩波浪变形模型，并通过波浪水槽试验进行了验证。对水深、周期、岸滩底坡等条件下的波浪破碎区波高分布和增减水量的分析比较表明，模型计算和波浪水槽试验结果吻合程度良好。该模型可以有效模拟波浪在破碎区的增减水和波高分布，并为相关工程设计提供参考。

英文摘要：

Based on the theoretical analysis and wave flume experiment, analyzing the energy dissipation caused by the sea bed friction and the wave breaking in the surf zone, a wave transformation model on the shore slope is established and wave flume experiments with mobile bed are carried out. Analysis and comparison of wave height distribution and water set-up and set-down in the sure zone have been made under the conditions of different shore slopes, water depths, wave periods and sands etc. The numerical simulation results of the wave transformation model agree well with the wave flume experiment data, the wave height distribution and the water set-up and set-down could be effectively simulated in the surf zone, which could be referenced in the related coastal engineering design and construc- tion.