中文摘要：

将缓坡方程引入到SWAN波浪谱模型，修改了波浪谱方程中传播速度的表达式，从而改进其在计算波浪绕射作用的不足．选用美国Delaware大学波浪水池实验资料对改进后的SWAN模型进行检验，计算结果与实测值吻合较好，表明SwAN模型能有效模拟近岸复杂地形下的波浪传播．将模型应用于琵琶门电厂港池内波浪的传播计算，分析防波堤4种不同的布置方式下港池内波浪有效波高分布图．研究发现，防波堤走向布置对改善港池内的泊稳条件有显著作用，而防波堤口门大小的作用相对较小，为有效掩护整个港池，防波堤布置方式应尽量垂直于波浪传播方向．本文成果对类似海岸工程有借鉴意义．

英文摘要：

The mild-slope equation was used to change the expressions for the speeds of wave propagation in the SWAN spectral equation, which overcomes the shortage in the diffraction computation with spectral model. Compu- tational results from the improved SWAN model agree with observations in wave basin at the University of Dela- ware. This shows that the improved model can preferably simulate the propagation of wave on complicated topogra- phy. The model was applied to compute the spread of wave in the port basin of Pipamen power station, and to ana- lyze the significant wave height under four different layouts of breakwaters. Research discovered that the orientation of the breakwater was remarkable for the improvement of the mooring basin conditions, and that the width of break- water entrances played a small role. Therefore, breakwater extension should be perpendicular to the direction of wave propagation in order to effectively cover the entire basiru This is a significant reference for similar coastal structures.