中文摘要：

文章在波浪水槽内通过数值模拟和物理实验相结合的方式,研究了波浪的产生和传播问题。在高阶谱计算模型中引入数值造波边界条件,建立了非周期谱波浪水槽。基于该水槽研究了具有不同波要素波浪的产生和传播问题,通过与理论解的比较验证了数值结果的正确性。结果表明线性波浪理论可预测具有较小Ursell数波浪的传播,而随着Ursell数的增大,波浪的运动可用二阶波浪理论解来描述。最后通过数值模拟结果和实验结果比较,验证了数值水槽的有效性,分析表明,波面升高及其对应振幅谱的计算结果与实验数据吻合较好。

英文摘要：

Generation and propagation of nonlinear water waves along a wave flume is studied numerically and experimentally.A numerical flume is developed based on the non-periodic high-order spectral method by using an additional potential technique. The flume is applied to predict the generation and the propagation of nonlinear waves of different Ursell number.The calculations are compared with the linear wave solution and the analysis solution. The results show that for waves of small Ursell number, the generation and the propagation of water waves can be predicted by linear solutions; with the increasing Ursell number, the generated waves are shown to be in good agreement with the analysis solution.Laboratory experiments are conducted in a wave flume to verify the nonlinear numerical wave flume.The comparisons show a reasonable agreement between numerical and measured free surface elevation and the corresponding amplitudes of Fourier series.