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中文摘要：
对波浪在珊瑚礁地形上的传播特性进行了物理试验研究,将珊瑚礁地形简化为坡度为1∶5的陡坡（向海坡）加较长水平礁坪段的地形,对规则波和不规则波在该地形条件下的波浪破碎及波高沿程衰减进行了研究。结果表明,波高较小时,波浪破碎发生在礁坪上,但随着入射波高的增大,破碎位置逐渐向来浪方向移动,直至在向海坡段破碎。对于在礁坪上破碎的波浪,相对水深db/L0一定的条件下,破碎波高与入射波陡H0/L0相关,且变化趋势受相对水深db/L0的影响。同时给出了该地形条件下波浪破碎指标以及礁坪段破碎后沿程波高的计算公式。
英文摘要：
The physical modelling experiment on the wave propagation characteristics on the reef terrain was conducted. The wave propagation process,wave breaking criteria,and the wave height changes after wave breaking were analyzed. The results show that if water depth and wave period are determined,the position of wave breaking will move forward on the reef flat with the wave height increasing until wave breaking occurs on the slope. Once the db/ L0 is determined,the Hbhas a linear relationship with H0/ L0 and the change is affected by db/ L0. Compared with the previous several wave breaking criteria,the form and parameters of wave breaking criterion formula are given based on the test data. The formula which is used to describe the wave height changes after breaking is also given based on test data.
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