A practical model for the decay of random waves on muddy beaches
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分类:P731.22[天文地球—海洋科学]
作者机构:[1]State Key Laboratory of Hydroscience and Engineering, Department of Hydraulic Engineering, TsinghuaUniversity, Beijing 100084, China
相关基金:Project supported by the National Natural Science Fotmdation of China (Grant Nos. 10772099, 50221903). Acknowledgement The research was partially performed at the Department of Water Resources Engineering, Lund University, Sweden. The authors are grateful to Professor Magnus Larson for his suggestions.