中文摘要：

这篇论文为学习非周期的波浪火车的进化介绍一个数字模型，变浅，并且在波浪地区碎。模型能解决雷纳兹 averagedNavier 司烧(RANS ) 为吝啬的流动的方程，和为骚乱的 k- ε方程运动 energyk 和骚乱驱散率ε。追踪免费表面，液体(VOF ) 的卷工作，令人满意移流方程被介绍。在数字处理，第三顺序的迎风的差别计划被用于 RANS 方程的传送对流条款以便减少数字粘性的效果。轻轻地泼出沙滩上的一列周期的波浪火车的变浅并且碎的过程被建模。一个泼出的沙滩的计算波高和在一面垂直的墙上打破波浪压力的分发与实验数据相比。

英文摘要：

This paper introduces a numerical model for studying the evolution of a periodic wave train, shoaling, and breaking in surf zone. The model can solve the Reynolds averaged Navier-Stokes （RANS） equations for a mean flow, and the k-ε equations for turbulence kinetic energy k and turbulence dissipation rate ε. To track a free surface, the volume of fluid （VOF） function, satisfying the advection equation was introduced. In the numerical treatment, third-order upwind difference scheme was applied to the convection terms of the RANS equations in order to reduce the effect of numerical viscosity. The shoaling and breaking processes of a periodic wave train on gently sloping beaches were modeled. The computed wave heights of a sloping beach and the distribution of breaking wave pressure on a vertical wall were compared with laboratory data.