中文摘要：

为丰富天然染料的品种,提取天然黑米色素用于柞蚕丝绸的染色,探讨了染色p H、染色温度、染色时间对染色织物K/S值及红绿值a＊的影响,优化出最佳直接染色工艺参数,研究了Cu2＋、Fe2＋、Sn2＋及其拼混媒染离子对染色织物色光、色深值及染色牢度的影响.结果表明,优化的直接染色条件为：染色p H=3,染色温度90℃,染色时间60 min;不同媒染剂可分别得到不同色泽的柞蚕丝绸,媒染织物具有较好的耐皂洗及耐摩擦色牢度,但耐光色牢度较差.

英文摘要：

To enrich the variety of natural dyes, a natural coloring matter was extracted from black rice and used to dye tussah silk. The effects of the dyeing p H, dyeing temperature and time on K/S and a＊ values of the dyed silk fabrics were explored, and then the optimum direct dyeing process was obtained. The effects of mordant ions such as Cu2＋, Fe2＋, Sn2＋and composite mordant ions on color shade, K/S value and color fastness of dyed tussah silk were studied. The results showed that the optimized direct dyeing process was as follows： p H=3, dyeing at 90 ℃ for 60 min. The color of dyed tussah silk various with metal ions, the mordant dyed tussah silk fabrics had good color fastness to washing and rubbing, but they had low light fastness.